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Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved...
A numerical model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of a train of periodic borelike surface disturbances in the surf zone over a sloping beach. Turbulence production is included both in th...
Steady surf-zone longshore currents and directional properties of the incident wave field were measured on a beach with nearly straight and parallel depth contours. Selected data were processed into 6...
Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves we...
A new optical instrument was deployed in the surf zone in a trial experiment to measure bubble size distributions and visualize air entrainment and bubble formation mechanisms within breaking surf. Im...
The spectral energy balance of ocean surface waves breaking on a natural beach is examined with field observations from a cross-shore array of pressure sensors deployed between the shoreline and the o...
Water velocities as high as 25 m s21 have been recorded in the surf zone of wave-swept rocky shores—velocities more than twice the phase speed of the breaking waves with which they are associated. H...
Wave action imposes potentially large hydrodynamic forces on intertidal plants and animals, and can act as a primary agent of disturbance. It has also been proposed that rapid water accelerations prod...

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